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UK: Tune In, Turn on, Eat Up

Lauris Morgan-Griffiths

The Times

Saturday 25 Jan 2003

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A group of university friends are just saying no to hemp's druggy
associations, and promoting it as the latest wonder food

When you first hear about a group of university friends hanging out on
daddy's country estate and experimenting with hemp, you might think
they're following in the British tradition of the upper classes blowing
their trust funds on a life of indolence. But the younger generation on
the Firle Estate in Sussex are no respecters of tradition. Far from
turning on and dropping out, they have embarked on the task of
rehabilitating a non-narcotic relative of the marijuana plant, viewing
it as a great culinary cash crop of the future. This is not some
dilettante group playing at business. They understand hard work, and
there's not an illegal high in sight.

"People are genuinely interested, until you say it is a food, and then
they rapidly lose interest," says Henry Gage of the ups and downs of
promoting the hemp oils, pasta, pesto and ice-cream that he and four
friends produce from seed on Lord Gage's estate. I have been invited
down to Motherhemp's Sussex headquarters at Firle House for an
alternative lunch. Sarah Yearsley has picked me up from the station.

It is a beautiful sunny day. We drive in front of the house past the
overgrown lake and I'm led straight into the kitchen. Gradually the
other Motherhempers drift in to help. Lunch preparation is, apparently,
a concerted effort.

Sarah bustles around talking and making an autumn smoothie. Tania Lowry
quietly gets on with the bulk of the meal -she has already made some
hummus and hemp butter in a beautiful shade of green. Of them all she
is the real cook, formerly a chef at a well-known London restaurant,
Clarke's.

Jake Yearsley, Sarah's brother, quietly ambles in and gets on with
building an artichoke and orange salad. Lord Gage appears. This is not
his project but he is not going to be left out. His initial scepticism
has given way to enthusiasm and pride.

Henry Gage watches benignly from the sidelines. He started Motherhemp
in 1998 with Will Stevens after leaving Bristol University. They were
looking for an ecological business. Will had discovered the versatility
and potential of hemp, Henry conveniently had access to the odd
thousand-acre estate, and they were off.

At first they adopted a scatter-gun approach, producing textiles, paper
and moisturisers as well as food. Then the Yearsleys joined them and
the focus shifted on to food. Both abandoned stressful careers in
London -Jake in the music business, Sarah as a travel documentary
producer -because they felt that it was detrimental to their health.
They have Crohn's Disease - an irritable digestive condition -which
makes healthy diet of paramount importance. Jake says, "I would never
go back to London, even if they paid me millions of pounds."

Will Stevens, who has taken this one step further and now lives in
France with his wife and children, is now a "virtual" presence through
the wonders of e-mail.

Meanwhile the noise is deafening as Sarah whizzes up hemp seed with
water ( one part hemp to three parts water ) in the blender to make hemp
milk.

Raspberries, blueberries and a scoop of their vanilla-flavoured Hemp Ice
are blitzed together. We all drink it, even Lord Gage -mainly because
of the ice, to which he is particularly partial.

Jake has put himself outside Tania or Sarah's cooking jurisdiction, and
is doing his own thing. While peeling the orange and chopping the
artichoke, he explains, "Hemp is a complete vegetable protein and is
excellent for building up muscle."

Then it is time for the pasta -hemp and spelt fusilli. It only takes
three minutes to cook. The table is laid. Jake leaps up to make the
hemp dressing. Sarah examines the salad, and there is a discreet
brother and sister altercation.

"Do you think that's enough?"

"It'll have to be, there isn't any more."

Sarah takes matters into her own hands and assembles a green salad.
Having seen them all at close quarters I suspect the kitchen dynamic
plays back into the office: Miss Busy, Mr Independent, Mr Observant,
Miss Quietly Capable.

Everyone sits down to wholemeal -not hemp -bread, hummus and hemp
butter.

Served with the pasta is both green and red pesto. The salad is dressed
with Jake's dressing. Hemp oil is cold-pressed from the seed; the pasta
flour comes from the residue, or "cake". Nothing is cooked in hemp oil
because it degenerates at quite low temperatures into harmful
trans-fats.

I preferred the green pesto to the red, but then I am a bit of purist.
The hummus was nice and smooth. The pasta was gluten-free and extremely
good - brown, wholesome, and not at all stodgy and bloating in the way
that wholemeal pasta can be. But you certainly have to like hemp -the
nutty, seedy taste pervades everything.

After the main course Lord Gage waited expectantly for the ice-cream.

However, ice-cream was off. They had all naively assumed that the five
tubs that had been left in the fridge would be enough. However, they
had reckoned without Lord Gage. Only one tub remained -which had
serious Lord-like inroads in it -and that had gone into the fruit
smoothie. Henry stepped into the breach and rustled up a chocolate
drink -hemp milk mixed with cocoa.

The meal might have been a bit too green and brown, too open-toed
sandals for some. But it was certainly incredibly healthy. Hemp oil is
a complete protein, firmly associated with the current health buzz
words: EFA - essential fatty acids, omega 3 and omega 6 -in the perfect
balance; GLAs, Gamma-Linolenic Acid. All are essential for a good
metabolism and rarely found together in one seed. Hemp is
cholesterol-free and has been shown to improve skin disorders such as
eczema and psoriasis; inflammatory conditions such as arthritis and
Crohn's Disease, and cardiovascular problems.

Although the finola variety of hemp they harvest looks identical to
cannabis, you could smoke a whole field of it with no effect ( apart
from probably feeling rather sick ) as it contains no THC, the
mind-altering chemical present in cannabis. Even so, it has to be grown
under Home Office licence, and Motherhemp is the only company in the UK
allowed to grow it commercially for seed, which they then sell to
approved farmers. Henry had to be approved as an upright citizen,
undergoing rigorous police checks, before he was given the go-ahead.

"I was 23 when I started and immediately had the Home Office and the
local bobby on to me," he says. "The hemp has to be grown in a field
hidden from the road and away from public footpaths, in case anyone
decides to harvest it and sell it as something else.

"Even so," he adds, "I have found plants carefully removed from a
field."

Hemp grows extremely well in Britain, it is GM-free and does not require
pesticides or herbicides. For the first four years, Henry grew 30 acres
yielding approximately 20 tonnes of seed. This year they will grow up
to 2,000 acres, though not at Firle as it tends to grow better in the
north than the south of the UK.

The Motherhempers are all passionate about hemp as an ethical, organic,
environmental, sustainable, healthy food, although Henry's enthusiasm is
moderated in a very English way. He wants hemp to enter the
agricultural mainstream as soya and linseed have done, and in the
present dire agricultural climate feels that farmers should have a
chance to diversify with a viable, valuable, sustainable crop.

Just before I leave, Henry confides self-effacingly, "I feel very lucky
because I wouldn't have had the imagination to come up with an idea like
this. But I feel very privileged to be part of it."

Motherhemp: 01323 811909; www.motherhemp.com

Seeds of inspiration

Hemp-seed Tahini

1 cup hulled hemp seeds

1 tbsp hemp oil

1 tbsp water ( optional )

Toast the seeds and finely grind them in a blender. Combine them with
the oil and mix to a smooth paste. The mixture may require some water
to keep it moist. Add the resulting tahini to home-made hemp-seed
hummus.

Hemp-seed Hummus

3/4 of the hemp seed tahini above

1 can ( 425g ) of cooked chickpeas

1 tbsp hemp oil

1/2 cup lemon juice

3-4 cloves of crushed garlic

1 tsp soy sauce

Freshly ground pepper

A pinch of cayenne pepper ( optional )

Puree the chickpeas in a blender, add the other ingredients, and blend
until the texture is smooth and creamy.

Hemp Pesto

1/2 cup toasted hulled hemp seeds

2/3 cup sliced almonds

1 bunch of basil

3 tbsp hemp oil

3 tbsp olive oil

2 cups grated parmesan cheese

Crush seeds, almonds, basil, hemp and olive oil to a paste with a pestle
and mortar. Mix in the cheese. Serve with pasta.

John E. Dvorak, Hempologist The Boston Hemp Co-op's Online Hemp History
Library and Museum http://www.hempology.org


 

 

 

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