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Morocco: Anger Grows In Morocco's Rif Mountains, Home Of Hash

Cahal Milmo, in Ketama Morocco

The Independent

Saturday 28 Feb 2004

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In the Cafe Berber yesterday business was brisk as customers sipped glasses
of mint tea while two men in Adidas trainers and padded Nike sports jackets
touted walnut-sized samples of the local cash crop - "kif", or Moroccan
hashish.

The cafe, where no visitor can sit for more than a few minutes before
receiving a whispered offer of a fudgy brown piece of "chocolate", lies on
the bustling main street of Ketama. A tatty and lawless enclave perched
high in the inhospitable Rif Mountains of north-west Morocco, it is the
centre of a cannabis industry estimated to be worth more than UKP7bn a year.

Surrounded by forest and inaccessible valleys, this is Morocco's Wild
West. Assani, one of half a dozen "businessmen" hanging around the Cafe
Berber and other outlets offering "good smoke, good dreams" for 100 dirhams
( UKP6 ) for a blob of sweet-smelling hash, shook his head when asked about
life in the Rif.

He said: "Here in the Rif we are free and we are poor. Why should we care
what the government orders when it does nothing for us? We are the
untouchables. All there is here is the kif. It keeps us alive, not the
government. Where is the King when we need him? He has abandoned us."

Even in a region as fractious as the Rif, which has a long and bloody
history of insurrection against what its indigenous Berber inhabitants call
the "Dahilla" or the people of the east, in particular the government in
Rabat, direct criticism of the monarch, Mohammed VI, is rare and, to
ordinary Moroccans, deeply shocking. As one official put it: "You can call
politicians what you like but nobody speaks ill of His Majesty."

But Assani's words were being echoed throughout the villages and towns at
the centre of kif production leading down from the Rif peaks to the port of
Al Hoceima, where an earthquake on Monday night killed at least 600 people
and has left 30,000 homeless. Some estimates have said the final death
toll could be as high as 3,000.

As the rescue operation struggles to reach those in need, discontent has
erupted into civil unrest with protest marches and road blockades.

Mohammed, a father-of-four from the village of Imzouren, one of the
worst-affected communities, joined a march on Al Hoceima on Thursday which
resulted in scuffles with police. He was shaking with fury as he explained
that he and his family had waited for 72 hours without food or
shelter. "God bless the King who loves us. But he is doing nothing for us
in our hour of need. We are Moroccans, we are his people but they treat us
differently. In the Rif, we are second-class citizens."

Provincial officials in Al Hoceima and the health ministry in the capital,
Rabat, admitted to delays and difficulties in reaching outlying villages
flattened by the tremor, which measured 6.8 on the Richter scale, and
getting supplies to the tented camps which have sprouted up around the port.

The country's constitutional monarch visited the disaster zone within hours
of the quake and sent a personal message to his "loyal and devoted
subjects" vowing to "personally oversee the mobilisation of the organs of
the state and all its human and material resources to come to the aid of
the victims". But such assurances have done little to quell a wider
discontent.

According to experts, the fury has it roots in a more profound schism
between the people of the Rif and their nominal rulers, which has its
clearest expression in the stranglehold of kif on the local economy.

Professor Pascual Moreno, head of the International Centre for Rural and
Agricultural Studies in Valencia and an expert on the Rif, said: "Cannabis
has filled a void created by the inaction of the colonial rulers and the
failure of the Moroccan government to improve the infrastructure and
standard of living of the Berbers. Now kif is king."

The United Nations Office on Drugs Crime reported in December that cannabis
production was expanding so rapidly in the Rif that it was causing soil
erosion and deforestation. The area under cultivation has increased from
5,000 hectares in 1950 to a current level of up to 200,000 hectares. Some
two-thirds of the Rif population, amounting to 800,000 people, most of them
Berber, depend on the crop for their income. They produce 47,400 tonnes of
hashish a year, which is smuggled into Europe via a network of ports, chief
among them Al Hoceima.

But while the overall trade is worth an estimated UKP7.2bn, crime does not
pay for the overlords of Ketama and the peasant farmers in its
hinterland. The vast majority of the profits are taken by drug kingpins,
many of them British, Dutch, Spanish and German criminals on Spain's Costa
del Sol.

The average income from cannabis for a Rif farmer is just UKP1,280 a year,
and the region's share of the plunder is UKP141m - just 2 per cent.

Observers of the trade say it is the legacy of decades of repression and
ambivalence by the Rif's rulers - the colonial powers of France and Spain,
and then the government in Rabat, which two years after independence
brutally suppressed a rebellion by the Berbers in 1958.

Professor Moreno, who led an unsuccessful UKP750,000 European Union project
to persuade farmers to grow avocados instead of kif, said: "Resentment of
that suppression is still felt strongly. The Berbers feel attacked and
abandoned. There has been some investment in roads and schools but
compared with the rest of the country, the Rif is under-developed and
deprived.

"More and more people resort to growing kif or leaving to work abroad
because there is nothing else to do. In the end you get a place like
Ketama, which is like a final frontier: all that is missing is cowboys
carrying pistols. There is so much cannabis that the region cannot even
feed itself - 80 per cent of its food has to be imported. Without huge
investment by Rabat, nothing will change."



 

 

 

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